There’s a secret hiding underneath one of the Metro East’s most storied steakhouses — and after decades in the dark, it’s pouring drinks again.
Andria’s Steakhouse has anchored O’Fallon, Illinois, since 1978, and longtime regulars may remember what used to happen downstairs. Back in the early days, the basement bar known as The Rathskeller was the place to be, serving cocktails alongside live jazz and stand-up comedy. It eventually went quiet in the 1980s, even as the steakhouse upstairs kept thriving as a family-run favorite.
This past August, the basement came back to life. Third-generation owner and chef Max Kenison and his wife, Rebecca, have reopened The Rathskeller as a vintage-inspired hideaway, complete with its own menu of signature drinks and small plates.
Getting In Is Half the Fun
There are two ways down. From inside the steakhouse dining room, a bookcase swings open to reveal the entrance — the shelves painted a French Laundry blue inspired by a chance meeting with famed chef Thomas Keller during a walk in Napa Valley last year. Coming from outside, you’ll use a keypad instead: once you book a reservation, you’re sent a unique access code for the exterior door.
Inside, the room is deliberately intimate — just 1,300 square feet with seating for 26. Low lighting, black walls, ornate ceiling tiles, and peacock-colored wallpaper set a moody, old-school tone, while paintings by local artists line the walls. Plush couches and leather chairs invite you to settle in, and a screen shows classic films alongside a slideshow of memories from Andria’s long history.
The details reward a closer look. The wooden bar itself came from the Fox Theatre, and it’s backlit by LED candles shining on wine corks arranged to spell out “Rathskeller” — a gift from patrons. A vintage record player nicknamed Denny honors Dr. A. Dennis “Denny” Sparger, the Bach Society of St. Louis conductor who spent many evenings in the original Rathskeller. And an old rotary phone plays 1980s sports stories through its receiver.
What to Order
The kitchen leans trendy and shareable. Expect blistered shishito peppers, tempura-battered green beans with wasabi ranch, whipped ricotta with hot honey and crostini, and an olive dip — olives, feta, dill, and capers — served in a martini glass with crackers. Fried goat cheese, truffle string fries, and mini burger sliders made with Andria’s award-winning steak sauce round out the lineup.
Behind the bar, cocktail lead Kaylon Brown mixes house drinks like an espresso martini and a Smoked Tequila Manhattan built on mezcal, sweet vermouth, bitters, and dried lime. Prefer something without alcohol? The Slow Pour blends honey, ginger, fresh lemon, and soda.
A Family Story, Still Being Written
Sam and Muggs Andria founded the steakhouse in 1978. Their daughter Maureen and son-in-law Larry Kenison grew the business in the years that followed, and grandson Max eventually took over day-to-day operations. The Rathskeller revival is the couple’s way of honoring that history while giving the next generation something of their own.
“In 1978, people would wait in the basement for four to five hours to get a table in the restaurant upstairs,” Rebecca says. “Now, the basement is where we have more modern day fare, décor, and appeal while hanging on to some of those historic pieces along the way.”
Looking ahead, the Kenisons plan to host events in the space, from murder mystery dinners to holiday-themed parties — all in a room built for conversation. “I think it really bridges the future with the past,” Rebecca says. “We really want to make sure we appeal to a multitude of generations at Andria’s and have an experience for everyone as we move into the next generation of family ownership.”
Plan Your Visit
The Rathskeller is located at 6805 Old Collinsville Road in O’Fallon, Illinois. It is open 5–11 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Call 618-632-4866 for reservations — and keep an eye out for your access code.
