Which place has the top deep-dish pizza in St. Louis? —Rick B., St. Louis
The topic of pizza preferences often ignites passionate discussions among diners. The U.S. boasts a wide array of pizza styles, but two regional varieties emerge as particularly distinct: St. Louis-style and Chicago-style. While the local inclination is evident in favor of one, it is surprising to find that Chicago-style deep-dish options are relatively rare in the area.
To clarify some terms: Pan pizza refers to a thick-crust variant baked in a deep or sheet pan. In contrast, Chicago-style pizza—characterized by being baked in a round pan with a tall, thick crust—takes it a notch higher. This style is meticulously layered with cheese, toppings, and a chunky tomato sauce (in this order to avoid burning the cheese); it usually requires up to 45 minutes of baking; and is served in “pie-cut” slices.
Opinions on Chicago-style pizza tend to be quite polarized. Notably, comedian Jon Stewart vehemently asserts that it’s not pizza altogether.
The prevalence of St. Louis-style pizza might account for the limited availability of Chicago-style options in the area. Despite this, several pizzerias do feature it on their menus.
The oldest and likely most favored establishment is Blackthorn Pub & Pizza (3735 Wyoming), which has been crafting deep-dish pizzas since 1986. Some Chicago-style aficionados critique its tomato sauce as excessively peppery and lacking in chunkiness, yet Blackthorn enjoys a dedicated fanbase. Kevin McKernan, who took over the establishment in September, indicated to SLM that he intends to make slight modifications, including introducing a milder version of its herb-rich sauce for those with delicate palates.
Another well-respected spot is Tony Bono’s (4500 Hampton), with one patron comparing it to “almost an exact copy of Gino’s East [in Chicago].” Bono’s also provides a notable gluten-free crust. Not far away, Salvage Yard Bar and Grill (5406 Hampton) claims to uphold the same recipe for Chicago-style pizza as its predecessor, Louie’s Pizza Co.
Further west in the county, both A’mis (9824 Manchester) and Pizzarelli’s Pizzeria (15858 Manchester) serve Chicago-style pizza along with various other crust options. Additionally, two chain establishments—Nancy’s Pizza (2007 Highway K, O’Fallon, Mo), famous for its stuffed pizza (two crusts), and Joe’s Pizza & Pasta (present in four Metro East locations)—also command a loyal following.
Pizza enthusiasts continue to lament the closure of Pi Pizzeria, which introduced a cornmeal-enhanced version of the style to St. Louis. Its last outlet in the Central West End closed in July 2024 but left an impactful legacy, even receiving praise from Chicago native and former President Barack Obama, who once labeled it his favorite pizza in the nation.
On the subject of Chicago, Goldbelly offers and ships deep-dish pizzas from Giordano’s, Lou Malnati’s, Mi Pi Pizza, and Pequod’s, but the most appealing deal may be the five types of small, frozen pizzas from Gino’s East, available for just $10 each (and frequently less) at select Schnucks stores.
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November 29, 2024
6:00 AM
